Ireland in a Caravan
We became serious about travel shortly after COVID because my husband Darren and I no longer had young children. However, that doesn’t mean we didn’t have adventures before that!
In 2017, we took a family trip to Ireland, and it was my first time overseas. I had always wanted to see the Emerald Isle, and we decided to scatter some of my late mother’s ashes there. Her maiden name was Kristen Lacey, so the Irish roots were deep. Along with us and our three kids were my two brothers, their partners, and my mom’s husband, Allan.
With 10 people, we decided to hire a private driver for a small bus. If your budget allows, this is a terrific way to travel in another country. You have a guide who can tell stories, you don’t need to stress about driving, and that extra Guinness at the local pub isn’t an issue.
Missy Travel Tip: Don’t be afraid of extra travel to find airline deals. Our family of five flew to Dublin from Toronto because it was so much cheaper for all of us to fly non-stop from there on Aer Lingus. Cleveland, our home, now has non-stop flights to Dublin, but they did not when we traveled there.
Rather than stay the first night in Dublin, we headed north to Malahide and a hotel overlooking a golf course. We walked to Malahide Castle and Gardens, a medieval fortress set on 260 acres of parkland, features antiques, paintings, and even fairy trail. The next morning our van arrived, along with our driver and companion for the next week, Teddy.
From Malahide, we headed toward the west coast and Galway. The Irish highway system is fantastic and well maintained, thanks to an influx of EU money. The M4 and M6 flowed smoothly. Along the way we stopped at Clonmacnoise, an ancient monastery and burial place of St. Ciaran. It was our first real experience with Irish ruins. Even the highway drive was fascinating for the small castles and old homes that still dot the countryside. We arrived in the charming city of Galway and walked around for most of the afternoon soaking in the atmosphere.
The next day was a driving tour of Connemara, including the iconic Kylemore Abbey, founded as a monastery in 1920 for Benedictine nuns who fled Belgium in World War 1. Under The Kylemore Trust, it continues its mission as a Benedictine monastery, holding Kylemore and its spiritual mission, natural and built heritage in trust for the Irish nation. Kylemore Abbey is one of Ireland's leading visitor attractions.
We had lunch in the charming village of Clifden after a wonderful drive via the Sky Road, a panoramic journey that starts and ends in Clifden. The view from up there over Clifden Bay and the offshore islands in the Atlantic Ocean is breathtaking. Darren had been here in 1985, and we took a group picture in the same place his family did more than thirty years before!
Once we were done with Galway and Connemara, we headed south down the Atlantic coast to Killarney. One nice thing about having a private driver is stopping whenever we wanted to. Also, there are no bad views while riding through Ireland!
Along the way we stopped at the Cliffs of Moher, a must see for anyone visiting Ireland. The sheer cliffs are stunning and offer an incredible view. The shops are nestled in the hillside like Hobbit houses. Be warned though; it can be incredibly windy, and the weather is unpredictable. Be ready for almost anything!
After a ferry trip across the Shannon River and some sightseeing, we arrived in Killarney in time for dinner.
The next day we had a substitute driver as Teddy had a day off. It was Ring of Kerry day! The Ring of Kerry is a stunning 111-mile scenic drive around the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry. It’s just jaw dropping with its breathtaking landscapes, charming villages, and rich history. The route takes you through picturesque towns like Kenmare, Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Killorglin. We arrived back in Killarney for another night.
Missy Travel Tip: The Ring of Kerry drive typically takes about 2.5 hours without stops, but to fully enjoy the experience, allocate at least seven hours to explore the sights along the way. You’ll want to stop in every town and overlook because each view is more gorgeous than the last. Also, spring and autumn are ideal for visiting as they offer mild weather and fewer crowds. We were there in July and glad we weren’t driving!
The next day we headed to the southern coast of Ireland and the fishing town of Kinsale, known as the gourmet capital of Ireland. Kinsale is a wonderfully European village with charm to spare. We visited the 17th-century fortresses of the vast, star-shaped Charles Fort. It was also in the waters near the fort where we scattered mom’s ashes. Why Ireland? It was one of the few places she got to visit outside the continental United States, and she loved the island. We also scattered some of her ashes in Hawaii, where my brother lives, Lake Erie where we are, and Washington, DC, her home for about a decade until her passing.
Just for fun, we booked a ghost tour in in Kinsale. Darren was “meh” about it but opted to tag along. It may have been the best 10 Euro we spent in Ireland. It started at The Tap Tavern and essentially led by two men, one of whom strongly reminded us a John Oliver. It was, to say the least, absolutely hilarious. You learn the ghost stories, but these two were comedy gold, including one dressing in the wedding gown of a notorious ghost…until he quits because of comments about his looks. So much fun, and we know others who’ve had the same experience.
The next day was a visit to Cobh, the last stop of the Titanic before it set sail across the Atlantic. The actual dock is still there, along with a terrific Titanic and shipping museum. Cobh itself is very European looking with switchback roads and buildings lining the hillside up from the coast.
Eventually we started the journey back to Dublin making a number of stops on the way. If you are ever near the Jameson Distillery in Midleton, it’s worth a stop. You can learn how Irish Whiskey is made and sample the wares. Darren and my brothers each bought a bottle of Jameson cask strength they got to pour from the keg themselves. They signed a registry with their bottle number that will be there forever.
We also stopped at the famed Blarney Castle and kissed the Blarney Stone. If you are there, don’t miss the neighboring Blarney Woolen Mills to buy some authentic Irish goods. We also visited the ruins of the Rock of Cashel, which is well worth the stop.
We got to spend two days in Dublin and enjoyed the city immensely. The Harry Potter-like Trinity College with the Book of Kells is amazing. Even though I’m not a fan of Guinness, a stop at the Guinness Storehouse is a must. A great museum/history exhibit that ends at a rooftop bar with a 360-degree view of Dublin. We had cozy lunch at The Brazen Head, the oldest pub In Ireland, circa 1198.
We definitely want to return to Ireland, especially with the Aer Lingus direct flights from Cleveland. There is something magical in that place that feels like home, even if you aren’t Irish.
May the road rise up to meet you.
May the wind be always at your back.
May the sun shine warm upon your face;
the rains fall soft upon your fields
and until we meet again,
may God hold you in the palm of His hand.
