Savannah: Charm to the Nth Degree
Our middle child is an amazing artist and was accepted to the Savannah College of Art and Design in Savannah, Georgia. Not only was this a great place to go to school, it was a great place for their parents to visit! This blog contains items from several trips to Savannah, so it’s not as linear as some of my others. I start in the city and then work our way out.
The simple truth about Savannah is it’s one of the prettiest cities in the United States. Jones Street, where we twice stayed in VRBO properties, is often named THE prettiest street in America. With its colonial-style row house, cobblestone streets, and Spanish moss draped live oaks, it’s hard to find a more historic or picturesque location. I could wander the streets and squares of the historic district forever and not get bored.
Why do these Savannah buildings exist when so much of the south was destroyed in the Civil War and Sherman’s March? The building elders met Sherman on the outskirts of the city, knowing the way was lost. In return for not torching the city, they offered the Union Army a safe place to bivouac.
A weekend stroll in famed Forsythe Park and its iconic fountain will find pop-up art stands and food markets. The Mercer House and Museum, featured prominently in the book and movie “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil,” is a great look at a restored Savannah home.
Missy Travel Tip: Try to book a place in the historic district. The main city is walkable and like stepping back in time. Also, book the things you want to do ahead of time. Savannah is a very popular travel destination, and the museums and tours will sell out.
For lunch, maybe try Clary’s, a diner just off Jones Street. The breakfasts are fantastic and it’s where John Berendt wrote much of “Midnight.” Chippewa Square is where they filmed the bench scenes with Tom Hanks for “Forrest Gump.” The bench itself is in a local museum and the actual location no longer looks exactly the same, but it’s easy to find.
Downtown Savannah still holds its small city, southern charms with blocks of stores and eateries. Don’t be surprised if there’s a line for Leopold’s Ice Cream, but it’s worth the short wait. The Prohibition Museum is lots of fun, and you can try some sample cocktails at its speakeasy. If you’re a beer lover, try Service Brewing Company on Indian Street. We are big fans of the Savannah Banana Ale that holds a hint of banana flavor but isn’t overwhelming. Get it in a ‘to-go’ cup and sip it as you stroll along the nearby riverwalk. If you’re lucky, you’ll see one of the giant container ships coming into the Port of Savannah. It’s like seeing a floating city block. Finally, the city also features historic Fort Wayne and Colonial Park Cemetery, which is like something from a Scooby Doo episode.
Missy Travel Tip: Book an evening ghost tour, preferably a later one because the earlier tours are more family friendly and skip some of the more *ahem* interesting details. You can book riding tours, including in an open-air hearse, or a walking tour. We’ve done three walking tours, and Darren and I think Blue Orb was our favorite. But they are all fun!
Outside the city there is also a lot to see! Head over to Tybee Island and stop at the Fort Pulaski on your way. Fort Pulaski is where the Union Army successfully tested rifled cannons in 1862, the success of which rendered brick fortifications obsolete. The fort was also used as a prisoner-of-war camp.
Tybee Island, about 18 miles east of Savannah, is Georgia's easternmost point. The island has long been a quiet beach getaway for Savannah residents and a popular vacation spot for visitors from outside the Savannah area. You can visit the Tybee Island Light Station and the Fort Screven Historic District. If you’re feeling up to it, climb the stairs to the top of the lighthouse for an amazing view of lowlands and ocean. We highly recommend the Deck Beach Bar and Kitchen for lunch. You can sit on the patio and enjoy an unrestricted view of the Atlantic. The crab cakes are excellent according to Darren. Walk out onto the Tybee Beach Pier and Pavilion and maybe down to the water to at least soak your feet in the warm surf.
Another great place to visit is the Wormsloe State Historic Site, which protects parts of what was once the Wormsloe Plantation, a large estate established by one of the founders of colonial Georgia. The drive up is a stunning 1.5-mile dirt road lined with southern live oaks. You can also view the ruins of a small house with fortified walls built of tabby, a museum, and an area with recreations of colonial structures, such as a blacksmithing forge and a house similar to those first built in the colony of Georgia.
Bonaventure Cemetery might be one of the most iconic resting places in America. This fascinating cemetery on the banks of the Wilmington River is known for its gothic looks and Spanish moss draped live oaks. It’s the burial place of local music legend Johnny Mercer and where the statue of the so-called Bird Girl that graces the book cover of “Midnight” once stood. After the publication of the book, the sculpture was relocated from the cemetery in 1997 for display in Telfair Museums in Savannah.
There is much more to see in the surrounding areas, including the charming city of Beaufort, South Carolina. We have been to Savannah at least five times and would never turn down an opportunity to return.
Missy Travel Tip: In recent years, Savannah has become known for its baseball team Savannah Bananas. Their style of play is best characterized as the Harlem Globetrotters of baseball. They are fun, silly, and 100% sold out. If you want to see them, buy tickets first and then plan your trip around the game. Even road games for the Bananas sell out!
