Portugal: Everything We Hoped & More
There are certain places you hear about from time to time, and you think, “I’d like to visit there.” Portugal was a country Darren and I often discussed visiting. One day I was browsing travel websites for research and saw a deal on Exoticca that sounded too good to be true. For the two of us to visit Portugal for nine days would be about $3,000. That included airfare, hotels, breakfast, and English-speaking tours. How could we NOT go?
It was nice not having to worry about booking everything, which is something I can do for you. We took a red-eye and landed in Lisbon in the morning. An Exoticca representative met us at the airport and took us to our charming hotel. Our only disappointment was it wasn’t in the historic Alfama district, but we would be there the next day. We decided to explore the area where we were staying. We took a sky-tram ride along the Tagus River and then walked back to our hotel. We enjoyed the public art and learned where we might dine that night. We had lunch at a charming sidewalk cafe. All in all, a nice day.
Missy Travel Tip: pack a corkscrew if you are checking bags. If you do carry on, buy a corkscrew at the start of your trip and leave it behind at the end. While we enjoy drinks when we are out to dinner or at the hotel bar, it’s nice to have a bottle of local wine in your hotel room.
The next day was exploring the Alfama District, which is what many people have in mind when they think of Portugal. The winding cobblestone streets feature the iconic yellow trolleys and charming shops. We decided not to ride one because they are crowded and we enjoy walking, but it’s definitely worth considering.
We were there at the start of the holiday season, and you can’t beat going to a European Christkindl market. We also toured a number of other historic areas of Lisbon, including the incredible Belem Tower and the“Padrão dos Descobrimentos.” We also saw the church of the Jerónimos Monastery, home to the tomb of Vasco de Gama and the famous poet Camões.
That evening, we Ubered back to the Alfama District and attended an intimate Fado show, which is the traditional music of Portugal. We didn’t understand a single word, but we felt the music. After a late dinner with new friends, we Ubered back to the hotel for a glass of wine.
Missy Travel Tip: Have an Uber account before you go to another country because most have the service. We have learned so much from our Uber drivers, including local history and “secret” places to visit.
The next day our tour took us north of Lisbon to Sintra, a stunning town and UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with 19th-century Romanticist architecture, fairytale castles, and exquisite gardens. In the afternoon we headed to Cape Roca, the most westerly point of the European continent. If you crossed the Atlantic Ocean in a straight line from Cape Roca, you’d arrive in Delaware! We also visited the village of Cascais before returning to Lisbon. That evening, we went to a rooftop hotel bar we’d seen on our tram tour.
The next day we left Lisbon and headed to Obidos, one of the best-known villages in Portugal, thanks to its cobblestone streets and architecture, enclosed within medieval city walls. The next visit was Nazare, a surfers paradise, home to some of the largest waves in the world. We finished the day in the historic city of Fatima, one of the most important pilgrimage sites for Catholics. At the Capelinha das Aparições, the Virgin Mary is believed to have appeared to local children in 1917.
Missy Travel Tip: If in Portugal, buy a piece of apparel made of native cork. Cork is a renewable source and one of the main exports of Portugal. I bought cork shoes that look and feel amazing and Darren bought a cork hat. He can literally ball it up, stuff it in his pocket, and it will retain its shape. You can buy almost any clothing item made of cork. And, yes, it’s waterproof.
We started the next day in Tomar, visiting the famous Convent of Christ complex, once a stronghold of the Templars in the 12th century. There are rumors the Holy Grail may be hidden there! Then we stopped in the university city of Coimbra, once the capital of Portugal and home to Coimbra University. The berobed students were the inspiration for the student of Hogwarts in the Harry Potter series. We arrived in Porto in the evening and walked to a fantastic vegetarian restaurant near the hotel.
The following day was dedicated to Porto. With its stunning Old Town, Porto is one of the highlights of any trip to Portugal. Unfortunately, our walking tour was in a cold, steady rain. The city is spectacular, and we hope to visit again someday. We took a Douro river boat tour that would have been gorgeous in nice weather. We had rain sluicing down the windows. We toured a (dry and warm) port winery and had a nice tasting. Darren and I are not sweet wine fans, but good port is a special treat. We now keep some in our own wine rack for special occasions.
The final day was spent riding our bus back to Lisbon where we would fly home the next morning. We stopped in the charming city of Aveiro with its picturesque Venice-style canals and colorful architecture. In the late afternoon, Darren and I Ubered back to the Alfama District and decided to find our way to the top of the city. The views were jaw-dropping, but we had no idea where we were. Instead of bread crumbs, we followed the trolley tracks back to where we were a few days ago. After a quick dinner, we headed to the main square to catch an Uber and found a huge crowd gathered. We realized it probably was the holiday lighting ceremony and, 10 minutes later, we were treated to an amazing fireworks show! It had been scheduled the night before but was delayed by the same rain we had experienced in Porto. What a way to end the trip!
Did I mention our visit to the TWA hotel during our long layover at JFK? Highly recommend perusing the museum displays, soaking in the midcentury architecture and design, and enjoying a high-end cocktail in the lounge. It was a much better use of our time than scrolling on our phones.
